First Coat of Topsides Paint

November 29, 2015

The first coat of topsides paint went onto Alva Anne today!  Very excited to have made the first coat by the end of November.  The day started out with very little motivation for any serious boat work, but with Maggie nudging me forward, we both set out determined to get the first coat onto the boat.

We started with sanding the third coat of Interlux Primekote with 220-grit paper.  I worked the 6" finish sander while Maggie worked the paint edging and tight spots that the random orbital could not get at.

We finished the sanding by vacuuming the surfaces and wiping them down with solvent to remove any residual dust.  This was my first attempt at using the Interlux Perfection two-part epoxy paint, but I had no issues with the application or preparation.  I did manage to forget to stock up on 4" solvent-resistant foam rollers, so we made a quick trip down to the local marine chandlery for supplies.  With sunlight fading, we made a quick 15-minute supply run and then got right to it.  

The Interlux Perfection paint requires a 2:1 mix ratio, and up to 10% thinning (as required).  Once part A and B were combined I awaited the 20-minute induction period and then thinned the paint by 10%.  The paint had good application characteristics and flowed out nicely to create a high-gloss finish.  Despite a few errant gnats, I am really pleased with this first coat of Interlux Perfection Oyster White.

Total Time: 2.5 Hrs

Dry-Fitting Rub Rails & Sanding Coaming Boards

November 28, 2015

Needing to get the rub rails onto the boat prior to the topcoat painting, I went ahead with the dry-fitting process today.  I had been debating whether or not to move forward with the installation of the rub rails and just going with the toe rails, but in the end I am glad I decided to proceed with the rub rail / toe rail combination - classic Typhoon stylization.

I had prepared nearly all of the fastener holes while the rub rails were off of the boat.  I did this by drilling holes to accept bungs with a 3/8" forstner bit; drilled at 8" intervals.  As I began to install the rails I would drill a pilot hole through the rail and into the hull, and then secure with a 1.25"-long #8 panhead screw.  I used a couple stacked tongue depressors along the edge of the deck to align the top of the rub rails with.  I wanted the top of the rails to maintain a consistent height above the deck and the thickness of two tongue depressors was exactly what I was going for.  The rails sitting just proud of the deck will create an overlap onto the toe rails once they are installed.  

I did have need to install fasteners in a few additional spots once the rail were on the boat: additional screws at the starboard and port bow, and additional screws at the starboard and port stern.  I followed the same process of boring a 3/8" hole with the forstner bit... 

...drilling the pilot hole...

...and then setting the #8 panhead screw.

Above, I'm using the stacked tongue depressors to gain the required height on the rub rail.  While holding the rail at this height, I drilled the pilot hole and then set the screw.  Below, the rub rail sits just proud of the deck, and will overlap the toe rail once it is installed.

The rail installation was fairly straight forward, and was made all the more easy with Maggie assisting me with managing the springiness and twist of the rails as I installed.  I marked the aft portions of both rail as they extended beyond the transom, and then used a small saw to remove the unwanted portion.  Some additional shaping of the rails will be required prior to the final installation. 

The next item on the day's list was to do some final shaping of the coaming boards.  I used 80-grit paper, by hand and machine, to round over the edges of the boards and to take off the rough surfaces. 

I also secured the forward coaming returns with 1"-long #10 panhead screws by first boring out a 3/8" hole to accept a bung, drilling a pilot hole and then setting the screw.  

The boards are just about ready to take their first coat of Epifanes varnish.

Total Time: 5 Hrs.

Priming the Foredeck and Cockpit

November  27, 2015

My primary focus today was to get primer on the cockpit, and while I was at it to paint another coat on the foredeck and cabin top/sides.  Before I mixed up a pot of the Interlux Primekote epoxy primer, I first sanded the fairing work that I prepped the day previous.  Using 150 grit paper I sanded the several areas down to fair with the adjacent gelcoat surface.

Below, a 6" to 7"-long crack in the cockpit at the base of the companionway step.  The fairing compound that I mixed up and applied the previous day is West System's Microlight - a low-density filler that offers exceptional sanding and fairing characteristics.  All cracks were opened up with a spiral saw to create more surface area which allows for a better epoxy bond.

Below, small cracks in the cockpit at the base of the starboard seating.

Below, a fairly lengthy crack on the port side at the base of the molded backrest - coaming board is mounted here with two fastener holes visible.

I repositioned the port side coaming return, moving it aft by roughly an inch. This required filling the original fastener holes, which was done with the microlight product.

Below, a few cracks on the forward portion of the coach roof, as well as at the mast step base.

Below, the foredeck cleat required a bit of fairing as well; however, for the fact that this cleat will often be under load, I used a combination of colloidal-silica and microballoons for added strength.

After the sanding and fairing work was finished, I moved on to vacuuming the decks and cockpit thoroughly and followed that with a wipe down with a solvent to remove any residual sanding dust / contaminates.  

The epoxy Primekote was mixed in a 3:1 ratio and allowed to spend 20 minutes in the pot for its induction period.  After the twenty minutes had elapsed, I thinned the primer by roughly 20% with Interlux 2333N.  I applied the the primer with a 4" foam roller, moving from bow to stern.  

With the paint on I moved over to the shop to do a bit of work on the coaming boards.  Using a block plane I took the bottom edge down to the finished dimension and generally prepared the board for sanding work.

I purposely avoided putting another coat of primer on the poop deck due to some fairing work that I was in the process of completing for the outboard bracket.  So, mixing up another small batch of epoxy mixed with Microlight, I finished the day by applying the fairing compound to the four over-drilled fastener holes. These fastener holes were over-drilled to protect the core in the poop deck.  Prior to installation of the outboard bracket base, I will drill and tap for the silicon-bronze screws. 

Total Time: 5 Hrs.

Brightwork, Outboard Bracket, and Deck Fairing

November 26, 2015

I finished up the installation of the starboard coaming board in the morning, completing the dry-fit installation of the coaming boards.  

The fasteners being used are 1/4" 1 and 3/4" long machine screws with finish washers, backed with a washer and a nut - eight per coaming board.

I also took the opportunity to bore a hole at the aft end of each coaming board to accept a bung, I used a 3/8" forstner bit and then drilled a pilot hole for the eventual #8 pinhead screw.

....and the port side.  You will notice that I have not rounded the edges as of yet  -this will be done after I remove the coaming boards for final paint work.

I also marked and over-drilled for the outboard bracket.  The Cape Dory Typhoons came with a bronze outboard bracket that hung off the taff rail and was removable when not in use.  The bracket inserts into the base (pictured) and then articulates down to rest on top of the taff rail.  Today, I settled on the location of the base and then marked the location of the fasteners.  Next, I drilled a pilot hole through the poop deck and then followed that with a 1/2" forester bit.  The larger hole will be filled with thickened epoxy and then tapped for silicon-bronze machine screws, backed with a 3/8" thick fiberglass backing plate.

I "washed" the holes with acetone and then wetted the core with neat epoxy...

...after which, I filled the over-drilled holes with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica and micro -balloons.  I will sand the surface and apply another coat of epoxy primer prior to drilling and tapping for the machine screws.

I also took the opportunity today to repair some of the larger cracks in the gelcoat.  I used a spiral saw to open up of the cracks so that I could apply epoxy thickened with micro-light - a fairing compound that sands easily for final fairing work prior to painting.  The picture below is forward portion of the cockpit sole at the base of the companionway.

I also took care of a few cracks at the base of the starboard cockpit seating (below).

Additionally, I took care of the cracks at the base of the mold fiberglass backrest on the port side.

Finally, I finished up the over-drilled fastener holed for the foredeck cleat.  I prepared these holes the same way in which I prepared the base for the outboard bracket.

The last item on the list for today was to glue and screw the forward returns for the coaming boards.  The returns bridge the opening between the forward end of the coaming boards and the cabin sides.  I "washed" the mahogany with acetone and then wetted the surfaces with neat epoxy.  Later, I thickened some epoxy with micro-balloons and set the returns in place.

To keep things clean, I taped the areas to be glued.

With a small squeegee I cleaned up and squeeze out, fore and aft of the returns.

I had intentions of using clamps to maintain pressure, but in the end I felt I did not need the additional force having made good contact and achieving good squeeze out.

Total Time: 4.5 Hrs.

Continued Focus on the Brightwork

November 25, 2015

Westsail 42....coming soon.

I'll just come right out and say it folks...I have no pics for you today - full apology.  My focus, and I guess I was extremely focused today, was to continue the dry-fitting of the brightwork.  I managed to removed the recently installed toe rails, which included having to hacksaw through about 6 of the #10 fasteners.  In the process of installing the toe rails last week I managed to break-off the heads of these six fasteners.  In the spirit of full disclosure, I must admit to you that I used the wrong drill to secure the toe rail fasteners during the dry-fit stage...an impact wrench.  I used it to speed up the process of drilling pilot holes and securing the fasteners while not having to change the drill bit each time.  Because I could not find my alternate drill, I conceded to the use of the impact wrench.  My plan to deal with the unusable hole in the toe rail is to simply fill it with a bung, and then drill a new fastener hole an inch to an inch and a half from this "mock" fastener hole.

I used a grinder to take off the portion of the fasteners I had removed with the hacksaw. I ground the stub ends down to the deck level being careful not to grind into the fiberglass.  I also ground down the stub end sticking out of the underside of the toe rail.  Satisfied with the toe rails and having a plan for their eventual finish installation, I turned to the coaming boards.

I first took the port coaming "blank" and fitted it to its eventual home by making several angle just with a small Japanese saw.  With the port coaming board roughed-in, I then placed the starboard coaming board in its position and then used a jack and a small length of  1" X 2" to press the boards into the molded fiberglass coaming shape.  With the boards pressed into the position they will hold when finally installed, I marked along the outside of the coaming board at the point where the board rose above the molded fiberglass backrest for the cockpit seat.  I later used this line to position the fasteners for installation.  The boards were both about 71" in length.  I spaced out the position for eight 1/4" philips head machine screws. I pre-drilled on the marks, and then followed up with a 1/4" pre-drilling.  

After both boards where pre-drilled for their fasteners, I once again placed the boards in their final resting position secured with the jack and brace.  With the boards in position, I used #7 drill bit to marked the point on the molded fiberglass backrest for pilot holes.  I then removed the boards, and with the #7 bit, I drilled holes for the fasteners.  Before I dry-fitted the coaming boards, I tapped for the 1/4" machine screws.  After the fastener holes were tapped, I again mounted the coaming boards with the jack and brace and secured the port coaming board.  The 1/4" machine screws are mounted with finish washers and backed with 1/4" nuts and washers.

I will complete the starboard coaming board tomorrow and then turn my attention to the preparing for installation of deck hardware.

Total Time: 5 Hrs. 

Dry-fitting the Toe Rails

November 14, 2015

After taking care of the lawn work - yes, I am still cutting the lawn well into November! - I went straight into dry-fitting the toe rails.  The toe rails were purposely scaled up in size just a "hair"and this would require some detailed fitting work - namely where the rail joins the bronze stem fitting.  

With a miniature Japanese saw I encouraged the new toe rail into the stem fitting.

After the toe rail was made to feel at home adjacent the stem fitting, Maggie (my helper for the day) and I focused on installing the toe rail.  With the holes drilled out for the bungs already I countersunk the base of the holes and then processed to drill pilot holes for the #10 fasteners.

With the pilot holes drilled I secured the rail to the deck with the #10 screws.

Making my way aft...

Maggie enjoyed a moment of satisfaction after the starboard rail was installed.

In the end, we completed both the starboard and port toe rails.

We had some issue with the rub rail, and so scratched that installation from the docket.  I failed to countersink for the fasteners, and so the first one I attempted to install split the new, beautiful mahogany rail!  I am actually on the fence on whether I will even use the rub rail...the toe rails look great as they are.

With homemade chicken soup on the menu, we wrapped up the day's work and closed the shop.

Total Time: 3 Hrs.

Preparing Rail Fastener Holes & Fitting SB Coaming

November 13, 2015

The AM was spent participating in a 5K run - a relaxing run around a beautiful neighborhood!  When I came around to getting back on the boat for some work I decided to prepare the rub and toe rails for their fasteners.  I brought the portable drill press onto the back porch, set up a couple blocks on opposite sides of the press to support the length of rails, and then got to measuring the location of the fasteners.  I measured and made a pencil mark every 8" down the length of each rail, I then followed that with a quick tap of a finish nail on top of the pencil mark to allow the drill bit to self-center itself.

The bit I choose was a forstner bit, 3/8" in size.  I set the depth to allow plenty of room for the head of the screw (I originally was leaning toward pan-head screws, but I choose countersunk in the end) as well as room for repeated sanding work - if need be. 

The process for drilling the bung holes was: slide the rail into position, lower the bit until the pilot point just engages the mark made by the finish nail, raise the bit, turn power on, lower bit until it bottoms out on the depth gage, raise the bit, turn the power off, and then slide the rail for the next boring.

The process was pretty straightforward...just time consuming.

After the toe rails were finished, I then turned to the rub rails.  The rub rails were shallower in depth, so I adjusted the depth gage to the appropriate position.

Like the toe rails, I followed the same process for drilling out the bung holes on the rub rails.

After I finished all of the rails I carried them over to the boat and placed them on the side decks.  I then turned my attention to fitting the starboard coaming board into position.  The last time I had worked on the coaming boards I had simply cut them out of the planed mahogany planks, now came the fitting work - adjusting the surfaces and angles until everything fit properly.  I was able to finish most of this fitting process by the end of the day.  I will dry-fit the rails tomorrow.

Total Time: 4 Hrs.