Cape Dory Typhoon, Weekender

Cape Dory Typhoon, Weekender

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Compass, Vent, and Hardware

February 27th -March 1st, 2016

Working over the last week, I managed to get a few things crossed off the to-do list.  First, I completed the install of the new Nicro Day/Night solar vent.  At the beginning of the restoration, I removed the old vent and did not need to cut a hole in the deck.  In fact, the new installation used the existing fastener holes making this job quick and straight forward.  I sanded the area around the existing vent hole to generally prepare the surface for a good bond with the Life-Calk product.  I then secured the vent finish plate on the overhead (within the boat).  Next, I moved onto the deck and installed the base plate bedded in a liberal amount of Life-Calk.  I then finished by installing the vent housing and fan assembly.

I then moved to the bulkhead-mounted compass.  Again, I had purchased an updated version of the old compass and had a perfect fit in the existing hole.  I threaded the nylon fasteners into the backside of the compass, and placed the included rubber gasket onto the underside of the compass.  I placed the compass into the hole, and from the inside placed the backing housing onto the nylon fasteners and secured the housing and compass with nylon nuts.  The compass came with a cover that I later placed onto the compass bulb.

I also managed to remove the bungs that were standing proud on the taff rail and aft portion of the coaming boards.  I sanded the bung and then prepared the balance of the taff rail for a coat of varnish.

Over the last two days, I prepared and installed the poop deck cleat.  I first marked the area for the install and placed tape onto the deck to protect the surrounding finish.  I aligned the cleat on the tape and marked the location for the fastener holes.

Next, using a forstner bit, I drilled through then deck and inner core, careful to preserve the inner skin of fiberglass.  I cleaned out the bored holes, and then wet them out with epoxy.

With the holes wet out, I then mixed another batch of epoxy and thickened it with colloidal silica.  I spread this mixture into the holes and cleaned up the surfaces a bit.

The next day, I water washed the cured epoxy and then sanded the surface of the over-drilled holes.

I then set the cleat atop of the holes and positioned carefully.  I marked where the fasteners would ultimately penetrate the deck, and then drilled through to prepare the holes to be tapped.  I tapped the holes for 1/4" machine screws, and then finished by tapering the holes for a better calk seal.

I cleaned the surface with solvent and set my tools for the install.

I tapered the holes of the teak block, again to allow for a better calk seal.  I assembled the fasteners through then cleat and teak block, and applied Life-Calk to the underside of the teak block and onto the deck itself.  I then placed the penetrating threads of the fasteners onto the tapped holes on the deck and screwed them down.  Feeling for the fasteners from underneath the poop deck, I placed the fiberglass backing in position as soon as I had enough of the threads to screw the nuts on.  I used a wrench from below and a flathead screw driver from up top to firmly secure the fasteners in place.  I will clean up the Life-Calk later, as partially cured Life-Calk makes for an easier clean up.

Total Time: 4.5 Hrs.

Hardware Install & Naming

Sunday, February 21st, 2016

Well into the final stages of this restoration, I used the time this Sunday afternoon to continue the hardware installation, and reserved some time for the naming graphic.

After the mainsheet cam cleat was installed, I managed to fetch the camera and snap a photo.  The cleat sits atop a teak block, as most of the hardware will do.  Next, I moved to the stand-up blocks for the mainsheet.  I decided against over-drilling and filling with epoxy feeling that the fiberglass backing plates would be enough to adequately secure the blocks.

I used the teak brown Boatlife Life-calk to bed the teak blocks, and secured the stand-up blocks with stainless steel machine screws.  As mentioned above, I used fiberglass backing plates secured with washers and nuts.  The double purchase that the blocks provide for the mainsheet, coupled with the backing plates, should minimize movement of the hardware resulting in water intrusion.  (famous last words)

Next, I installed the jib sheet cam cleats.

Things got a bit messy, with clean-up to come, but I managed to seat the teak blocks and the cam cleats secured with washer and acorn nuts.

With daylight quickly fading, I turned to the naming graphic.  I positioned the name on the transom, stood back and made minor adjustments until I was satisfied with the result.

Placing a strip of tape through the middle of the graphic, I then peeled back one side.  Once I had a side peeled back to the strip of tape, I carefully removed the backing paper with a razor blade.  I then uses a squeegee to firmly press the graphic onto the transom, and slowly moved to the outboard edge while applying a steady and firm "wiping" motion across the graphic.  I then repeated this process on the opposite side of the strip of tape.

I then carefully removed the outer protective sheet, leaving the name proudly displayed on her transom.

Getting close...

Total Time: 5 Hrs.