Compass, Vent, and Hardware

February 27th -March 1st, 2016

Working over the last week, I managed to get a few things crossed off the to-do list.  First, I completed the install of the new Nicro Day/Night solar vent.  At the beginning of the restoration, I removed the old vent and did not need to cut a hole in the deck.  In fact, the new installation used the existing fastener holes making this job quick and straight forward.  I sanded the area around the existing vent hole to generally prepare the surface for a good bond with the Life-Calk product.  I then secured the vent finish plate on the overhead (within the boat).  Next, I moved onto the deck and installed the base plate bedded in a liberal amount of Life-Calk.  I then finished by installing the vent housing and fan assembly.

I then moved to the bulkhead-mounted compass.  Again, I had purchased an updated version of the old compass and had a perfect fit in the existing hole.  I threaded the nylon fasteners into the backside of the compass, and placed the included rubber gasket onto the underside of the compass.  I placed the compass into the hole, and from the inside placed the backing housing onto the nylon fasteners and secured the housing and compass with nylon nuts.  The compass came with a cover that I later placed onto the compass bulb.

I also managed to remove the bungs that were standing proud on the taff rail and aft portion of the coaming boards.  I sanded the bung and then prepared the balance of the taff rail for a coat of varnish.

Over the last two days, I prepared and installed the poop deck cleat.  I first marked the area for the install and placed tape onto the deck to protect the surrounding finish.  I aligned the cleat on the tape and marked the location for the fastener holes.

Next, using a forstner bit, I drilled through then deck and inner core, careful to preserve the inner skin of fiberglass.  I cleaned out the bored holes, and then wet them out with epoxy.

With the holes wet out, I then mixed another batch of epoxy and thickened it with colloidal silica.  I spread this mixture into the holes and cleaned up the surfaces a bit.

The next day, I water washed the cured epoxy and then sanded the surface of the over-drilled holes.

I then set the cleat atop of the holes and positioned carefully.  I marked where the fasteners would ultimately penetrate the deck, and then drilled through to prepare the holes to be tapped.  I tapped the holes for 1/4" machine screws, and then finished by tapering the holes for a better calk seal.

I cleaned the surface with solvent and set my tools for the install.

I tapered the holes of the teak block, again to allow for a better calk seal.  I assembled the fasteners through then cleat and teak block, and applied Life-Calk to the underside of the teak block and onto the deck itself.  I then placed the penetrating threads of the fasteners onto the tapped holes on the deck and screwed them down.  Feeling for the fasteners from underneath the poop deck, I placed the fiberglass backing in position as soon as I had enough of the threads to screw the nuts on.  I used a wrench from below and a flathead screw driver from up top to firmly secure the fasteners in place.  I will clean up the Life-Calk later, as partially cured Life-Calk makes for an easier clean up.

Total Time: 4.5 Hrs.

Hardware Install & Naming

Sunday, February 21st, 2016

Well into the final stages of this restoration, I used the time this Sunday afternoon to continue the hardware installation, and reserved some time for the naming graphic.

After the mainsheet cam cleat was installed, I managed to fetch the camera and snap a photo.  The cleat sits atop a teak block, as most of the hardware will do.  Next, I moved to the stand-up blocks for the mainsheet.  I decided against over-drilling and filling with epoxy feeling that the fiberglass backing plates would be enough to adequately secure the blocks.

I used the teak brown Boatlife Life-calk to bed the teak blocks, and secured the stand-up blocks with stainless steel machine screws.  As mentioned above, I used fiberglass backing plates secured with washers and nuts.  The double purchase that the blocks provide for the mainsheet, coupled with the backing plates, should minimize movement of the hardware resulting in water intrusion.  (famous last words)

Next, I installed the jib sheet cam cleats.

Things got a bit messy, with clean-up to come, but I managed to seat the teak blocks and the cam cleats secured with washer and acorn nuts.

With daylight quickly fading, I turned to the naming graphic.  I positioned the name on the transom, stood back and made minor adjustments until I was satisfied with the result.

Placing a strip of tape through the middle of the graphic, I then peeled back one side.  Once I had a side peeled back to the strip of tape, I carefully removed the backing paper with a razor blade.  I then uses a squeegee to firmly press the graphic onto the transom, and slowly moved to the outboard edge while applying a steady and firm "wiping" motion across the graphic.  I then repeated this process on the opposite side of the strip of tape.

I then carefully removed the outer protective sheet, leaving the name proudly displayed on her transom.

Getting close...

Total Time: 5 Hrs.

Brightwork Kind of Day

Monday, February 15th, 2016

Having the day off from work, I spent a good portion of the day installing various pieces of the boat's trim.  I began with the cockpit seat trim, installing them with stainless steel #12-24 machine screw, finish washers and backed with flat washers and nuts.

I then installed the aft cockpit trim - spanning the aft portion of the coaming boards and just forward of the poop deck.  The trim piece was installed with stainless steel 1/4"-20 machine screws with finish washers and backed with flat washers and nuts.

While I was in the area, I re-installed the builder's plate (Hull # 1504).

I moved up to the companionway hatch, and installed the vertical trim pieces with #10 stainless steel screws and finish washers.

The trim required three screws per side.

Moving up to the companionway slide trim, I installed the cabin roof companionway trim that locks the companionway slide hatch in place.  The trim was installed with a good bed of teak brown BoatLife caulk, #10 screws with finish washers.

The trim was secured with four screws per side.

I also installed the upped and lower hatch trim.

These final pieces concluded the companionway trim components.

I then turned to the taff rail installation, and started by countersinking the pre-drilled fastener holes.  Countersinking will allow for more caulk to fill and protect the fastener holes from water intrusion.   After I had countersunk the pre-drilled fastener holes, I then countersunk the pre-drilled fastener holes on the underside of the taff rail itself.  I applied a generous amount of the teak brown BoatLife caulk and then placed the taff rail on the deck.  I worked from the port side, installing one screw at a time and worked to finish up on the starboard side.

With the taff rail in place, I worked to install the backstay fitting prior to knocking off for the day.  I ran into some trouble with the installation that would eventually require me to squeeze myself into the aft recesses of the boat to grind out some rough fiberglass work.  With the area beneath the poop deck addressed, I then successfully installed the backstay fitting with 1/4"-20 silicon bronze machine screws backed with flat washers and nuts.

Total Time: 8 Hrs.

New Non-Skid Paint and Final Varnish Application on the Toe and Rub Rails

Sunday, February 14th, 2016

Grabbing a few hours in the evening, I set out to put the final coat of varnish on the toe and rub rails, as well as the freshened up non-skid paint on the foredeck.

I taped off the rails both on deck and underneath the rub rails, and my helper for the evening sanded the surface of the rails with 220-grit paper.  While she was sanding the rail surfaces, I proceeded to tape off the deck in order to apply the new non-skid paint.  With the non-skid areas taped off, I then sanded the old non-skid to generally prepare the surface to accept the new paint.

After I had the old non-skid areas sanded, I then vacuumed the surface to remove the sanding debris, followed by a thorough wipe down with solvent to remove any residual material.  After the surfaces were clean, I applied the final varnish coat to the rub rails and the toe rails, and then moved on to the application of the new non-skid paint.

Total Time: 3 Hrs.

Final Install of Coaming Boards, Mast Step, and Finish Paint of Hatches

Saturday, February 13th, 2016

Working to put the boat back together is so much more enjoyable than pulling it apart; however, it seems to take just as long, or longer.  During my work on this day, I installed the coaming boards using 1/4"-20 stainless steel machine screws, finish washers, and backed with flat washers and nuts.

The appearance of the Typhoon instantly improved with the warm woodwork installed.

I would later clean up the teak brown BoatLife caulk.

Things are looking good...

I also installed the mast step, bedding it with the same teak brown BoatLife caulk.

I utilized a backing plate on the two aft fasteners.  I could not use a backing plate for the forward fastener due to the length of the machine screw itself.

The last order of business was to sand the primed companionway hatch and cockpit locker lids with 220-grit paper, and then put a finish coat of the Interlux Perfection on them.

Total Time: 8 Hrs.

Foredeck Cleat Installation & Misc. Deck Hardware Prep.

Sunday, February 7th, 2016

Ahead of the Super Bowl festivities, I wanted to get at least the foredeck cleat on the boat. I made a run to the hardware store for a 5/16" tap, but due to its size at the base I had to use a locking wrench for the assist in creating the threads.  I started by pre-drilling...

...and then tapped the fastener holes with the 5/16" tap.

As I moved from hole to hole, I finished by slightly over-boring the holes to allow more polysulfide to fill and protect the opening from water intrusion.

The prepared fastener holes ready to accept the cleat and silicon bronze machine screws.

I liberally applied the polysulfide to the underside of the cleat, to the deck holes themselves and just under the machine screw head prior to it being seated into the cleat.  I will cleanup the squeeze out after the polysulfide cures somewhat.

I applied a couple backing plates to the underside as well.  The length of the machine screws will be taken off with a hacksaw at such a time WHEN I HAVE IT!  :)

I finished up by preparing a number of teak bases for the balance of the deck hardware.

Total Time: 2.5 Hours

Taff Rail Dry Fit & Engine Bracket Install

Saturday, February 6, 2016

It's getting down to crunch time!  I need to wrap up the Typhoon in order to 1. go sailing!, and 2. to make room for the Westsail 42 about ready to come down from Maryland.  After a leisurely morning, I started work on the boat around noon!, I began with cutting out a couple backing plates.  I needed a backing plate for the engine bracket to be installed on the poop deck, and one for the forward deck cleat.  Using a piece of fiberglass angle, I made the required just for the needed dimensions.

My priority today would be the engine bracket installation, so I proceeded in kind.

Patterning the fastener holes for the engine bracket, I transferred them to the fiberglass backing plate and drilled them out.  I slightly over-drilled the holes in order to allow for some margin of error in the tight spaces below the poop deck. 

Okay, I couldn't resist...I also drilled out the holes for the forward cleat backing plate.

I wanted to dress up the engine bracket installation a bit, and so I decided to fabricate a teak mounting plate for the bracket.

I worked the teak until I achieved my desired result.

Next step was to drill the holes to tap for fasteners.  I used a #7 - the drill bit required for a 1/4" 20 tap.

Once I had the holes drilled, I then tapped them for 1/4" 20 machine screws.  The screws I am using here are silicone bronze.  Also, the holes were over-drilled and filled with thickened epoxy during an earlier work session.

With the holes drilled and tapped, I then bored a tapper to allow for bedding compound to create a better seal.

The final install of the engine bracket; I will clean up the squeeze out later.

The next item for today was the installation, or at least dry-fit of the taff rail.  I aligned the rail on the trailing edge of the poop deck and marked for fasteners.  I ended up putting 9 fasteners to the right of center and 9 to the left of center.  The high number of fasteners may be a bit overkill, but I felt like the extreme deflection the rail had to endure made the number of fasteners necessary.

With the rail in the dry-fit phase - fasteners holes bored out with a forstner bit and then pre-drilled to accept a #8 panhead screw - I then removed the rail for further work.

I rounded all the edges and generally worked the rail into a pleasing shape.  I then sanded through to 220-grit paper, and then prepared for a thinned coat of Epifanes varnish.

With the varnish applied to the taff rail, I then cleaned up a bit and closed the shop for the day.  Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to go ahead and install the taff rail and bung the fastener holes. 

Total Time: 7 Hours